Kayaking for the rest of us

Kayaking for  the rest of us
Kayaking for the rest of us

The perfect portable kayak cart



I have been on a quest for some time now for an easy to use, portable kayak cart.  After three design changes, and one complete  crumble, my search has FINALLY come to an end. 

The design I have settled with is both durable and portable.  Plus with  this design I am able be in and out of the water in a matter of a few minutes.

I found this design or one much like this on-line, and with a few changes was able to come up with the design you see today. 

I chose to use black pipe to make my cart this time for durability purposes. I thought about using my usual goto building material, PVC, but I chose the metal pipe for it strength. I am sure, however,  you could use PVC to build this project if you chose to. The pieces you will need to complete the kayak cart are simular ,  however you choose to build it.

You will need the following supplies:


2)  10 inch wheels (chose for being light weight )
The following is 1/2 black pipe and fittings.
1 18 inch pipe
1   3 inch pipe
2   1/2 inch 3/4 "Ts"
2.  1/2 inch to 3/8 reducer

2   3/4 inch diameter black pipe 3 inch long
2   3/4 inch bolts 4 inches long
4.   3/4 inch washer
2.   3/4 inch nuts
2.   3/4  inch wing nut
1.   Wash machine hose
1.   Pool noodle cut to size
1    bungee cord


The items I have listed above are for my kayak you may need to add an extra 3 inch pipe or 2 to make the length you need.


Step 1
Lay your pieces out so you will know what order you will be installing them. It makes assembly go much quicker.

Start with the 1st "T"  then mover to the 18 in piece and work to the out from there . For my kayak my sides were not equal, but after the noodle is added  it will not be noticed.  Be sure to put your noodle on your pipes before you put your on  both "T's."

Next we come to the axles and this is where the fun begins. OK not really.






You need the 4 inch bolts for this. I used threaded rod for mine then cut it to 4 inch length instead of a 4 inch bolts.



Next you need to add the reducer followed by a washer then by an other nut. The Reducer's outside threads face the head of the bolt.


 The key to setting  up the axles is making sure the hexagon head, or in my case the top nut, center on the reducer.  You want to use the reducer after the nut is tight. Then tighten your assembly as tight as you can.



 Repeat the process for both sides. Then add you reduce'stress on your pipe assembly.


Add your 3/4 inch pipe pieces to the top of the "Ts".  Install wheels with wheels washer and wing nuts, remember  not to over tighten the wing nut.

Last install your wash machine hose on your 3/4 inch pipe fittings.   Tighten all pieces together with your wrenches,  except your wing nuts

I chose to use a stock wash machine hose to make the top part of my kayak cart. I also could have made it more cut to size by possibly putting a hose mender on one end.  Once again I am going for durability,  So I chose to leave the hose in one piece  and wire tie it to the size I  needed.  I purchased stock hose at my local hardware store for under 6 dollars .



I looked all over for a cheaper alternative and decided to stick with the hose part of my cart, but when it came right down to it this was the better buy.


The last step is finding the best place for your cart. I chose about 1/4 the way down.  Then I took my hose and gave it a half twist so there was about 2 inches of play between the kayak and the hose. This allows the hose to slip easily over the top of the kayak.  Once In place I attach the bungee cord to smaller loop. And I am in business. 

 The next images I am going show you is how easy it is to store the kayak cart in my  kayak. I like to have it in as few pieces as possible so it is easy to store. So the only things I took off my cart was the wheels.  I have some room next to my seat where I am able to put the main axle assembly.  Then I tuck the wheels Into the front of my kayak. To be honest it  takes longer to put all my tackle and rods into the kayak then it does to build and disassemble my new cart.

You will see in top middle my main axle is stored away. It's that easy.   

Thanks for checking out my kayak cart.   Let me know if you have any questions or comments. Thanks.  Joe 

Don't have time to build your own here is an affiliate link through Amazon.com. 

5 comments:

  1. I completed a pvc version of this. I wanted to keep the weight down by going plastic with the tube and fittings. I used elbows, one side threaded instead of tees. I did not use heavy duty wash machine hose. Again, I wanted to keep the weight down. I used 1/2" id clear vinyl tubing fitted onto Watts nylon hose x 1/2 npt adapters. SS Hose clamped the tube right on, the elbows were threaded on one end which were fitted with those adapters. I drilled out the bends of the elbows to fit the axel. I used aluminum hollow shaft for the axel and cotter pins to jeep everything together. Very light but combined with support of the pvc relatively strong. I need for racing / cruising not fishing so I dont have a lot of weight to haul. Thanks for much for your design. Everything breaks down easy. Stores easy in my yak when on the water and my edition weighs almost nothing! You rock.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Btw, I am quite surprised you are fishing out of an Aruba, you brave soul. Out of the two I own, I would prefer my SunnyD Phoenix 10.4 if I had to fish with what I have. There is like no storage on the Arubas and I would never take mine fishing.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I made a cart, but I wanted to haul the kayak with a bike. I couldn't figure out a way to attach the kayak to the bike without purchasing an expensive piece of equipment like the "Dumb Stick". Does your cart attach to a bike, or is it only for pulling by hand?

    ReplyDelete
  4. Where is it attached,the rope to pull it? How to keep front from touching ground?

    ReplyDelete
  5. Suggestions for making this towable by bicycle?

    ReplyDelete